Where to Eat in Vannes

menu

outside

inside

One of the murals inside

Brasserie Les Halles et des Arts

9 rue des Halles, Vannes

This brasserie is on a side street, just up from Les Halles (the Covered Market Hall, just inside the old walls on the east side of Old Vannes) and is obviously very popular, as each time we walked by it was pretty full. On our last evening, we decided to try it and were very happy with our choices and our meal.

You can sit inside, both upstairs and downstairs, or at a few outside tables. The inside is decorated with attractive large murals.

chalkboard

Roysters

musselsWhen we first got there, the large glass door between inside and outside was open and we opted to sit at a table just inside, to benefit from the outside air without being outside totally, as it was a little cool. Soon after we sat down though, the staff closed the door, as the breeze got really cool. We didn’t mind actually, as the people at the table just outside had started to smoke and the smoke was drifting inside, which we dislike intensely!

A chalkboard advertised the Menu of the Day for 16 euros—a appetizer plus a main dish, R3fishor a main dish plus a dessert. A good deal, but we opted for the menu, as we wanted more choice. I had a wonderful mussels dish, Rod some oysters to start and then a house special of a dish with 3 fish. Plus a bottle of rose wine. All great, with good service in spite of the place being busy, and the total was only 58.80 euros.

You can pick up a business card with a punch card on the back: after 10 visits, the Brasserie will offer you a free aperitif for the whole table (kir, sangria or fruits juice). A nice idea, if you live there.

 

Posted in Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Eating Around Gare de Bercy

menu

salad

Bercy Cafe’s delicious version of Salade Perigourdine

 Bercy Café

On recent trips in France we have quite frequently traveled from, or to, Gare de Bercy—often on our way to Clermont-Ferrand. On a couple of occasions, we’ve arrived at Bercy with a number of hours to spare before our train departure, and it was lunch time.

The station itself has only a couple of take-away food stands, no actual café to sit down for a light meal. So, we wandered around the nearby streets and there are many cafes and restaurants.

We picked the Cafe Bercy pretty much at random the first time, as their menu had

Rsalad

Perfect with a small pichet of rose wine

good lunch salads. But, the salads were so good that we returned on another occasion.

So, if you are ever at Bercy Station and need a meal, try this café, just a 5-minute walk from the station platforms.

118 rue de Bercy, www.bercycafe.com

Open 7 days a week, 5:30am-2am

Service continu 11:30am-midnight. Service continu (continual service) means they don’t have set hours for serving lunch and dinner, as many places in France do. It wouldn’t make sense to restrict meal times here, as their clientele must often be travelers like us.

Posted in cafe, food, Paris, restaurant | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Jardins Éphémères, A First in France

rwalls

Rod in the gardens (previously moat) just outside old Vannes city walls

garden

The first garden we saw

In the summer of 2016, Vannes had a wonderful garden series, called Jardins Éphémères (Ephemeral Gardens).

When we first walked into the old walled city from our hotel just outside the city walls, we noticed a pocket-sized patch of greenery alongside one of the walls and thought “Oh how pretty.”

Next we noticed the “lace” discs on poles in the median strip of the main road in front of the marina when we walked there for dinner. An information board told us it was called “Escape” “It is a reflection on perspective. The garden is caught in traffic, but it must not hide the view of the harbor. It is an open perspective between the town and the port of Vannes.” That was when we began to realize that this must be a series of special “gardens” and we decided to find out more in the next days.

laceclose

“Lace” discs at marina

lacemedian

“Escape”, with old entrance gate to Vannes in background, left

lacemedian2

“Escape”, the garden on the median by the marina/port

Jardins Éphémères (Ephemeral Gardens) has the meaning of fleeting, impermanent gardens. Or maybe the idea of gauzy and misty also comes into it, depending on one’s interpretation, I guess.

We found out that this was was the second year the city held this special event. The first edition of Les Jardins Éphémères in 2015 was one of the most successful events of 2015 in Vannes. In the heart of the old city there were 16 contemporary, classical, modern or offbeat gardens that captivated the locals and the millions of tourists (some estimate 2 million a year).

The concept was the idea of Vannes’ mayor David Robo as a way for the city to keep its 4-flower reputation. France has a system of designating whether a city/town is pretty with many flowers: The city/town gets designated as a Ville Fleurie (a Flower Town) on a board as you enter the town—more flowers on the board mean a more flowery town. Vannes has been a Ville Fleurie with 4 flowers (like 4 stars for a hotel) and the city wanted to keep that honor.

guinguettesign

One sign describing a garden on 2016

cathedral

Vannes cathedral

There was no cost to the city for the first Jardins Éphémères except watering costs to maintain the gardens. This is because the garden creations were financed and donated by landscape professionals. These people in turn benefited from a showcase of millions of visitors, and communication media to publicize their work.

Because 2015 was such a success the city decided to do it again in 2016. For this new edition, about forty creations were received from a call for projects. The city retained twenty-one proposals, which became 21 gardens installed on 21 sites in the historic heart of Vannes. The teams were multidisciplinary, composed of landscapers, nurserymen, architects, writers, sculptors or landscape schools. As in 2015, all works were realized and financed by the landscapers.

There was a map with a garden walk to find all 21 gardens, but we only discovered that

city-hall

City Hall was the site of a garden (see below)

after the fact, so we missed a few. But it was fun anyway, discovering these Jardins Éphémères dotted all over the Old City and tracking down as many as we could. Some were fairly large, some very tiny, some pretty, some whimsical, some funny, some overflowing with greenery, others with almost no greenery. But, each one had a theme and a story, which is a lovely concept. And, what they planted and and/or where they planted fit into that theme.

As we read, some of the gardens are emblematic, some colored, some innovative, or fragrant, or edible. One, in the Town Hall, was even made of paper, so really anything goes! The city and the creators obviously put a lot of creative time and energy into making these and it was a great addition to the city landscape.

As we wandered around we realized that each garden had an information board explaining its meaning. We read the boards and tried to understand what the creators meant and wanted to convey.

Some gardens: (pictures below each description)

Le Jardin des Ruches (beehives); the board invites “lover of bees you are welcome here.”

beehive

beehiveclose

Next to the Cathedral St Pierre is Entre Ciel et Terre (Between Sky and Earth), also described as “between man and countryside.”

skyearth

Le Jardin Gourmand; described as a garden to nourish, to honor the richness and diversity of cultivated plants, including a small street library, and various garden tools.

goourmand3

gourmand2

Le Serpent qui Danse (The Serpent that Dances); “Follow the serpent dancing and undulating with feminine curves along one side of the port. This fascinating reptile from the waters now has a body of straw to better blend it in with nature.”

serpent

La Colline aux Mille Jardins (The Hill of a Thousand Gardens); This garden is just outside the old city walls, next to the Prison Gate. Vannes school children colored the pots, presenting their imaginary gardens. Beautifully done, we thought.

pots

potscloser

pots2

 

Reconquête (Reconquest): This garden, also on one side of the port, evokes a winning back/retaking of earth by the fauna and flora in an urban environment.

conquest

conquestclose

La Guinguette des Belles Éphémères (The Outdoor Café of the Beautiful Fleeting Things): Who are the beautiful ephemeral beings, mysterious personages that adorn the Hotel de Ville Square, motionless around the pond?

guinguette

guinguette2

gourmand

Jardin Gourmand

Apparently a few of the 2016 garden installations around the marina/port were damaged (sadly), but the city has decided that they will go ahead with an edition in 2017.

These are the first Jardins Éphémères (Ephemeral Gardens) in France and no other city has copied, so far. Although, the city of Nancy does have a large garden called Jardin Éphémère in the main city square, Place Stanislas, which it has put on every year for 13 years now.

 

 

Posted in art exhibition, Brittany, city walks, gardens, parks and gardens, Vannes | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Paris: A Restaurant Re-Visited

outside

menu

Menu

outsidenight

All the smokers outside!

Les Petites Ecuries

I wrote about this restaurant before (https://vivsfrenchadventures.wordpress.com/2015/04/09/and-testing-the-new-in-paris/ )

40 Rue des Petites Ecuries, 10th arrondissement, not too far from Gare de l’Est. Closest Metro stop: Chateau d’Eau.

livingwallrod

Rod waits for his beer. See the living wall

reflectors

Reflectors that make up the side of the bar counter

livingwall We remembered this place from a previous visit to the city when we stayed at the hotel almost opposite. We loved it then and loved it again. What draws you in is the green living wall, then the bar inside made of reflector lights. It’s always crowded and popular, so it must be good.

We sat outside first for a beer near the living wall, but then moved inside to eat—it was too smokey outside! Lots of people in France still smoke, and are allowed to do so outside restaurants, so if there’s an open area with tables, it can get unpleasant for a non-smoker! There’s seating downstairs and upstairs, but we prefer downstairs near the bar so you can watch all the action.

rodinside

fauxfilet

A decent-sized faux filet

We had great service and food—again. Both times, we had wait staff who were really friendly and went out of their way to be helpful. Plus, that night was the semi-final soccer game of the Euro Cup (France v Germany) and the atmosphere in the restaurant was electric—people standing around watching the big TV screen, oohing and aahing, cheering, being disappointed etc. France won 2-0, much to the happiness of the local crowd!

What we had: an Edelweiss beer each, a bottle of rose wine to share, a huge assiette de charcuterie (charcuterie plate) to share, a faux filet (Rod) and a large special salad (Viv). All for a total of 90 euros, which isn’t too bad for a decent place in Paris.

salad

The Petites special salad was wonderful

soccerfans

Happy soccer (football) fans. Note the reflector bar counter

 

A lovely evening. And definitely, we’ve added this restaurant to our list of favorites in Paris.

Posted in food, Paris, restaurant, where to eat in Paris | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

La Trinitaine and Breton Galette Cookies

cowsign

rtruck

galettetin

Tin of Galettes

Good marketing by Cows (on Parade), and What’s in a Name? Biscuits, Galettes, Palets?

La Trinitaine: Located at Kerluesse, Saint-Phillbert, Morbihan

Last summer we spent some time in Brittany. We used a few different towns as bases to explore the surrounding countryside and attractions. One was Auray, not too far from Vanes, which I’ve written about earlier.

While in Auray, we drove out to visit some of the famous ancient sites and sights in the Morbihan, Brittany. One day, as we drove to a time-based entry to Gavrinis Island we noticed two bright red fiber-glass cows. So, we saw the cows first, and then recognized the name Trinitaine from the red truck parked at the marina in Vannes for the big road race.

cow

cow2

ourteacup

Our tea cup and cookie

We’ve always been interested in the “Animals on Parade” concept ever since we first saw the “Cows on Parade” in Chicago in 1999, so we decided we had to return the next day. So, on our way back from sightseeing on the Lacmariaquer Peninsula, we did. It was perfect time for an afternoon tea or coffee too, so we were happy to find that they also have a lovely café.

 

What is La Trinitaine?

Part tourist/souvenir shop, part biscuit factory, part bakery, and part corner bar/salon de

galettetin2

Tin of galettes

the, selling biscuits, cakes and other Breton products.

La Trinitaine has been a family biscuit factory since 1955, making butter biscuits, galettes, shortbread, palets (French salted butter cookies), kouign Amann, crepes, and salt butter caramels.

La Trinitaine is well known in Brittany for its traditional cakes and biscuits so it’s a good place to stock up on souvenirs and gifts.

souvenirs

Various souvenirs

galettetin3

A different tin of galettes

cider

One of the types of cider on sale

We wandered around the shop first, a huge space with pleasant staff. It’s great as it offers a wide array of typical products from Brittany. One of the main offerings is biscuits and galettes, sold in beautifully decorated biscuit and candy boxes or tins that are perfect as souvenirs or gifts. The decorations are often a traditional folk design. The choice of biscuits is impressive and prices are moderate.

Besides the biscuits, a big speciality is cider (alcoholic) and tinned sardines.

cider2

Another cider

sardinesign

cidercups

Cider cups

Look for cider cups, and other cups, or mugs, and plates with the Breton symbol, or a striped nautical theme. It’s handy to find so many regional products all together in one place—quality products at a reasonable price.

The café is also very nice—it serves sandwiches, pizzas, quiches etc. so is perfect for a light lunch. There’s also a large choice of cakes and pastries. We stopped for a cup of tea, but many locals were eating and/or having a drink too.

Biscuiteries are very common in Brittany. What are they exactly? Places that make biscuits. Unlike in the USA, where biscuits are somewhat like scones, these biscuits are more like American cookies. Just what are they?

First, a bit of background:

Thrifty Bretons began salting their butter for two reasons: salt was plentiful and cheap,

galettetin4

Tin of galettes with map of Brittany

and salting the butter made it last longer without spoiling. One tradition surrounding butter in Brittany is the beurre d’accueil, the welcome butter, when visitors are offered bread and butter. This tradition is alive in many Breton restaurants today where you’ll find bread with butter placed on the tables. One of the most delicious products made with Brittany’s fabulous butter is Biscuits Breton, or Galettes, or Brittany Butter Cookies.

cider3

There are many ciders to choose from

Biscuits are deceptively simple and plain but that makes the ingredients shine. Made of flour, sugar, egg and salted butter they are somewhat similar to shortbread or sable cookies, but not as rich. They have a number of different names. Brittany Butter Cookies are sometimes called Breton “sand cookies”, aka Sablés , aka Biscuits de Bretagne, aka French Butter Galettes. These thin Butter Galettes are very similar in taste and texture to American butter cookies. They are round, crispy and (for some) addictive.

Families around France traditionally enjoy a variety of cookies and individual cake-like pastries throughout the day. They are usually offered at breakfast, as after school snacks, and perhaps as light after-meal desserts.

flag

A Breton flag flying outside La Trinitaine

La Trinitaine, has been producing traditional French butter Galletes for three generations now and is known for its strong devotion to tradition and quality.

Besides this main factory/outlet, La Trinitaine also has shops in Saint-Malo, Concarneau and Rennes, to name a few.

Well worth a visit if you’re ever in the area. But, even if you’re anywhere else in France and you get a chance to taste and/or buy galettes, please do. I’m not a big dessert or sweets person, but a galette or French Biscuit is very nice with a cup of tea or coffee.

 

 

Posted in Brittany, cafe, food, icons of Frnace, special shops | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Running Race, and a Book on Africa

banner

racesign

blowup

One of the blow-up arches ready to welcome the runners back

Another serendipitous find in Vannes. Two actually: a special running race and a photographic book exhibition.

At the time we were there in June, Vannes was hosting a very special Trail Running event: the L’ultra marin, billed as a race around one of the most beautiful bays in the world.

Vannes sits at the head of the Gulf of Morbihan and so is perfectly situated to be the center of the activities linked with this race. Runners run all the way, or part of the way, around the bay/gulf—definitely an endurance race if they go the whole way round. It’s a distance of 177 km (110 miles), along mostly coastal trails from one cove to the next, passing small villages, fields, salt flats, ancient menhirs. Only 20% is on roads. The trail is open and monitored day and night and participants can turn it into a major sporting challenge.

mainaview

Vannes marina

marinablowup

redtruckThe L’ultra marin activities and information are focused on one side of the Vannes marina, near the Vannes Visitors and Information Center, and there was a definite buzz, a feeling of anticipation and excitement. We strolled all around the marina one morning, looking at stalls with runners’ needs (clothes, special energy foods and drinks etc), and marveling at the energy. That was the first time that we saw a bright red La Tinitaine biscuit truck, not realizing that those biscuits are very popular in Brittany. The following week, near Auray, the town where we stayed next, we actually found the La Trinitaine factory and outlet shop and went in to visit and sample (see upcoming post).

sign

sign2

One of the photos in the book

Earlier in our Vannes visit, on the other side of the marina we’d found the homage to Charlie Hebdo’s Georges Wolinski, which touched us deeply (see an earlier post). Now, at Le Kiosk, next to the Vannes Visitors and Information Center, a compelling poster stopped us in our tracks. It was of an African man, head wrapped up in a scarf and eyes blocked by sunglasses, with “Afrique(s)” [Africa(s)] written below him. We are originally from Africa, so this was like a magnet for us: we had to see what it was.

Well, it was an exhibition of about 40 of the photographs by French photographer Pascal Maitre from his book “Incroyable Africa” (Unbelievable Africa, or Amazing Africa). It’s a wonderful collection of stunning photos, telling a fascinating story (multiple stories really). A story of 13 countries in Africa, told by Maitre, who visited the continent many times. They were often places that were difficult to access, but places he could get to because he knew the terrain and the people. He must really have got the trust of those people to be able to take some of those photos we saw—some very intimate, others very graphic, or very poignant. Some are about nature, some about economic and working life, others about beliefs, many about conflicts and their consequences (and those African countries have had their fair share of war and civil conflicts), some about night life. All telling about life as he saw it in Africa.

bookcover

Book cover

rreading

Rod peruses the book

Pascal Maitre was born in 1955 in Buzançais, France, and studied psychology before beginning a career in photojournalism in 1979. He’s worked for many magazines and the international press and has received many honors and awards. Although he’s worked around the world, most of his work was in Africa, a continent for which he had/has a special affection. He’s now based in Paris but still travels to Africa frequently.

The exhibition in the Kiosk was free (No photos of the photographs), and there were copies of the book to look at too. It ran from June 8-September 4, 2016, so we are very happy that we found it—a bonus to find something of Africa in Brittany.

Posted in famous people, photo exhibition, special exhibitions, sport, Vannes | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

A New Favorite Restaurant

building

redfront

vchurch

The black stone Cathedral is the backdrop

L’Oustagou in Clermont-Ferrand

1 rue du Terrail (just off Place de la Victoire, overlooking the back of the Cathedral)

This might be our new favorite place in Clermont-Ferrand and one of our best in France. It’s billed as a traditional Auvergne restaurant and the food is excellent, as was the service.

It’s in a great location in the middle of the historic city center, but it’s quieter than other restaurants around Place de la Victoire and has a special view of the wonderful black-stone cathedral.

 

rkir

The terrace is just on the other side of the road from the restaurant

vtable

Luscious geraniums in planters

windowIt’s a pretty place, grey stone outlining red window frames, a bright red store front, and many flower planters, both lining the outside terrace and on the building’s windows.

We sat outside on the shaded terrace (a huge umbrella canopy and leafy trees), as it was very hot that day. Most other people did the same, so the wait staff were scurrying ni and out. The terrace is on the other side of the road from the restaurant entrance, and the seating area is separated from the small street by planters overflowing with red geraniums. We sat next to one and it was delightful—shady, green and pretty.

rfood

Great food

salad

The salad auvergnate is heavy on cheese

wine

An exciting photo—-see the geraniums reflected in the wine bottle?

The restaurant has all kinds of specials, written on a blackboard, and two menus but we just opted to share our two platters, which was more than enough. Some of the regional offerings are truffade, aligot, frogs legs, Auvergnate stew, and stuffed cabbage.

We had 2 kirs, a bottle of Auvergne wine, a large charcuterie and cheese plate, and a large salade auvergnate, all served with very nice crusty artisanal bread. The total of 58 euros is quite reasonable for a great meal in France.

It’s open from 12-2pm for lunch and 7-11pm for dinner.

Can’t wait to get back!

 

famousfolk

On the red store front, a fun picture of famous Auvergne folk

Posted in Clermont-Ferrand, food, restaurant | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment